My Grandfather was an old school farmer from way back who depended on his crops for his living. He, like farmers then and now, knew that the secret to optimum yield and plant health begins in the soil. If the soil was just right and other conditions were favorable, his yields were higher and he could make a descent living that would get his family through the rest of the year.

My grandfather also knew that the condition and health of the soil directly influenced the plants ability to resist disease and insects. Having to use any type of insecticide on his farm was virtually unheard of. And yet, he had no insect problem.

So the question of what is the secret to healthier and more beautiful plants should really begin with the question of what is the secret to healthy soil.

Many factors will influence the quality and condition of your soil. And at the top of the list is the ph (acidity or alkalinity) of soil. Most folks have heard about soil ph but very few know how important it is and the difference it makes in color, yield, flavor, heath, etc.

If the ph of soil is incorrect, nutrient uptake is limited or restricted altogether. It doesnt matter how much fertilizer you add, the plants wont be able to use it efficiently. Iron, for instance, becomes locked into soil that is too alkaline. It wont matter how much iron you add, the plant wont be able to pick it up and use it.

If growing is not optimal, plants start to yellow or look sickly, and there is no obvious signs of insects, the first place to start is by testing the soil. In granddads day, folks would actually taste the soil to test the ph. If it was sweet, it was acid. If it was sour, it was alkaline. Fortunately for us, we dont have to go out to our gardens and eat dirt. Modern test kits are available at garden centers, theyre inexpensive and easy to use.

Most plants prefer a slightly acid to neutral soil. Neutral is a 7 on the scale while slightly acid is a 6 on the scale. And I did say most plants. Some plants do prefer more acid soil and some do like alkaline. Its a good idea to know a little bit about what youre growing.

Now, my grandfather had a magic ingredient that he continually added to the soil. This magic ingredient would actually create healthy soil, buffer perfect ph, and facilitate proper nutrient uptake. It also made plants not so tasty to insects.

A magic ingredient? Not hardly. A lost art and science. Definitely. His magic ingredient was that he dutifully returned everything back into the soil. Everything from plant wastes to manure to kitchen scraps. His magic ingredient was nothing more than pure natural organics. If a soil was found to be out of balance, it was a matter of a simple adjustment. A little bit of sulfur to buffer alkalinity or a little bit of lime to buffer acid and also tilling in more bulk organics.

Farmers and gardeners back then couldnt rely on a lot of chemical fertilizers because they were either unavailable or they simply couldnt afford them. Oh Im sure they would have liked to have had them since it would have made life much easier. However, what we didnt use then that we do use now is why they had healthier plants, higher yields, better tasting food, more nutritional food, and even more colorful flowers. Again, the difference is organics.

Organically prepared soil eventually becomes stable and naturally balance in ph. All necessary plant nutrients become available and plants are able to use what they need and only when they need it. An excesses of individual nutrients in organic soil will actually be buffered and not do the plants any harm.

Plants grown in organic soils are naturally more resistant to insects and disease. Theyre simply healthier and insects and disease generally attacks plants that are already unhealthy to begin with.

Chemical fertilizers are like a quick shot in the arm and plants will greedily take in more than they need. This weakens a plants ability to resist disease and insects. Then, of course, youre going to need insecticides. However, healthy organic soil is also full of millions of beneficial bacteria and micro-organisms. Chemical fertilizers and insecticides will kill these very necessary elements and weaken plants immune systems even further. And so in using chemicals, we create a never ending no win cycle.

Creating organic soil will take a little effort and wont happen overnight. It will take a few seasons. However, the rewards will far outweigh the effort. And eventually youll find that you spend less time taking care of your garden and more time enjoying it.

To begin with, start saving those leaves and grass clippings. This is a wonderful no cost resource. If you dont have any of your own, Im sure your neighbors will give you some of theirs. You can compost them or shred them as top dressing that will eventually break down into the soil.

Ill also suggest two books to you. Rodales Complete Book Of Composting and Rodales Encyclopedia Of Organic Gardening. These two books alone will give you all the knowledge you need for composting and organic gardening.

Other secret ingredients are all around you, are usually free, and are often found right in your own trash can. Kitchen scraps, coffee grounds, and even some papers can be composted.

Have a friend with a stable? Some folks will let you clean out their stable just for doing it. This is a very inexpensive way to add a lot of bulk organics very quickly. Keep in mind though that manure is better composted as it is extremely alkaline due to a high content of urea.

On top of all of this there is an endless list of organic materials, mineral dusts, and rock fertilizers available through organic gardening stores and sites.

So there you have it. I did learn something from my grandfather. And so did you.

Written by Steve Boulden. Steve is the creator of The Landscape Design Site which offers free landscaping advice, plans, and tips to do it yourselfers and homeowners. For more free information on landscaping and growing plants, visit his site at: http://www.the-landscape-design-site.com

Mulching is the application of organic matter on any exposed soil between plants and shrubs and should be carried out while the soil is warm and moist.

Benefits of Mulching

Retaining moisture

A good layer of garden compost or well-rotted mature will keep the soil below cool and moist and therefore help retain moisture. Never mulch on top of dry soil as it may stop rainwater soaking in.

Suppressing weeds

A layer of mulch will exclude light and therefore stop weed seeds germinating. However, you must ensure that the ground is weed free before you mulch as it does not actually stop the weeds from growing.

Improving the soil

The mulch will eventually be dragged down into the soil by worms thereby adding goodness to the lower levels of the soil. This is sometimes known as the no dig technique for soil improvement.

Types of Mulch

Manure

Fresh manure releases ammonia which can scorch or kill plants, therefore, should be kept for six months before being used so that it rots down sufficiently. Don’t keep it too long though as you will find all the nutrients will have been washed out by the rain.

Leaf Mould

Leaf Mould is just well rotted leaves but it makes a wonderful mulch. Just collect fallen leaves during the Autumn, pack into black plastic bags, make some holes in the bags to allow rain water to escape and leave to rot down for 2-3 years.

Mushroom Compost

Mushroom compost tends to be alkaline due to the chalk used in the casing material but if you live in a mushroom growing area it can be a good source of organic matter. It is especially good for acid soils.

Chipped Bark

Chipped Bark is good for mulching but composted bark is excellent for soil improvement.

Garden Compost

Your own garden compost is rich in nutrients and is one of the best soil improvers there is so use it as a mulch every year to get the benefits.

Peat

Peat used to be the main soil improver for gardeners but in recent years more and more people are realising the damage peat-extraction is making to wetland areas so it is best avoided.

It is actually quite easy if you know the basics. It only takes a few minutes to give your houseplants a new lease on life. This article provides a few do’s and don’ts.

A Larger Container is not Always Necessary (or Better)

The mistake that many people make when they see roots migrating from the bottom of a pot is to buy a slightly larger container and place the overcrowded plant, root ball and all, in its new quarters.

This may be a mistake! The roots may have wandered out in search of more oxygen due to overwatering or hard-packed earth. Analyze the situation. If soil is of poor quality and you suspect overwatering, your plant may simply need more drainage and a change of dirt. A larger pot is unnecessary.

Poor Care Diagnosis?

If your verdict is ‘poor care’, make sure that the root ball of the plant is slightly moist, and then carefully remove it from the old pot. Hold your hand over the top of the soil, supporting the plant between your fingers as you tip it over. Usually a plant will dislodge easily. However, you may need to pass a sharp knife between the outside of the root ball and the pot if it is stubborn.

If the roots smell bad or appear to be rotting or discolored, you have an ailing patient!

Care and Cure

Add a 1-inch layer of gravel, broken pottery, or very small pebbles to the bottom of the pot for drainage. Very carefully loosen the roots, removing as much soil as possible with gentle shaking. A spray bottle filled with lukewarm water can be used to spray away even more soil. Cut off any roots that appear unhealthy. Make a small mound of good quality potting soil in the bottom of the pot. Position the plant gently to see how high it sits. You may need to add or subtract soil to place it at the correct level.

Next, gently fill the area around the plant with more soil, packing lightly with your fingertips or the handle of a wooden spoon to ensure that there are no large air pockets. Carefully tap the pot a few times to settle contents. Finally, water very lightly, add more soil if necessary, and place the plant in an area away from drafts and direct sunlight until it has had a chance to recover from its trauma.

Does it Just Need More Room to Grow?

If you are sure that your plant has received the best of soil, light, and watering conditions, but it definitely needs repotting, try this approach instead.

Remove the slightly moistened plant as previously mentioned. DO NOT LOOSEN THE ROOTS - you want the root ball to retain its shape. Use a very sharp butcher knife (not a serrated bread knife) - gently sawing about one inch off the bottom of the root ball. Gently loosen as much dirt as possible from the roots. Form a mound of soil in the pot and position as above, adding more soil and protecting from extremes of light and temperature for a week or so.

Spider Plants

Do not be in too big a rush to repot spider plants. ‘Spidering’ is triggered by overcrowding.

Establish a Routine

Some home gardeners repot their plants once every year, using the same treasured pots. Plants treated in this way do very well. Every potting cycle provides them with fresh nutrients. The old soil and roots can be composted and recycled.

Make Greenery a Part of your Life

Plants magically transform our homes, malls, and offices. They provide us with oxygen and filter impurities from the air. Even occupants of the tiniest apartments can protect the environment and their own health by carefully cultivating some indoor greenery.