Price : $21.96

Product Description

The Well-Designed Mixed Garden is a design book with a difference. Written for gardeners who are passionate about plants of all kinds (hence the mixed garden of the title), it reflects decades of professional experience and artistic innovation. As with her bestselling book The Well-Tended Perennial Garden, master designer and plantswoman Tracy DiSabato-Aust provides not only inspiration but also scrupulously organized information on design and connoisseur plants — all from original research dating back to her degree work in horticulture.

Her new offering is a master class of design fundamentals, with an emphasis on often-neglected topics, such as site evaluation, color theory, and planning for maintenance. It is also a gallery of detailed design plans that show how ideas are put onto paper and then translated into three dimensions. Lessons learned in its first two parts are strengthened in an Encyclopedia of Plant Combinations; each entry notes the design considerations at play and provides tips on how to keep the combination looking its best. And the lifetime care needs and unique design characteristics of featured plants are summarized in the useful charts and lists that conclude the book. The result is a nearly foolproof guide to every aspect of designing superior gardens with superior plants. With more than 250 color photos and illustrations, this book is as much a feast for the eyes as it will be a trusted reference for the library shelf.

Customer Reviews

Review date : 2007-09-03
Comprehensive and very user friendly. A book every home flower gardner would want to have.

Review date : 2007-05-16
I’ve heard other gardeners talk about Tracy’s books and what an inspiration they are, so I bought "The Well-Designed Mixed Garden" expecting to learn some GREAT ideas for my gardens. It has some good information on principles of design and how to work with color, texture, and so on. But I was disappointed at how weak and uninspiring the section is on plant combinations. She calls it an "encyclopedia of plant combinations," and the section is full of photos of flowers and plants she thinks are winning combinations. The combinations mostly have no real visual appeal, the photos (in that section) are plain, and it’s a wasted section of the book. I think there was only one of these combinations that actually looked beautiful. Most of these photos were from her own garden, and perhaps she let her personal affection for her own gardens cloud her judgment on what to include.

I like the rest of the book, however, and her examples of garden designs in other parts of the book have good photos and design layout drawings that are quite useful.

Review date : 2007-05-12
This book is so helpful in figuring out how to mix flowers and plants in border-type gardens. It details color combinations and tells what flowers go well together. It provides pictures of various gardens in different season to provide an idea of how the landscape will look in Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter.

Review date : 2007-02-05
This is the first book I would recomend to anyone! Ms. Disabato-Aust compiles a vast amount of quality information in one book, and she explains abstract concepts in a way that regular people who aren’t master gardeners can understand. She also includes insights from her vast experience; it’s not a dry recitation seen in other sources. She explains when and why to break the generally-accepted guidelines.

I’ve been a hard-core gardener for about three years, and I’ve already gleaned some of the information from other sources. But I had to read a lot of different books and articles to get it, and it was often contradictory. The book not only ties it all together in a cohesive manner, but gives very detailed examples.

I particularly enjoyed the section on combinations, where Ms. Disabato-Aust explains why certain things work together in a converational tone. Far from being a preening dilletante, the author’s manner is friendly and warm.

I only had two complaints, and they are possibly unique to me. As you might expect, the "example" gardens shown used Ms. Disabato-Aust’s style of gardening. It’s wonderful, but I have a different style, and would have appreciated seeing the gardening principles illustrated using different styles. Second, I garden in North Florida. A fair number of the plants that look so beautiful in her Ohio garden wouldn’t make it in North Florida.

Review date : 2006-03-24
I’m a master gardener from Illinois,and have heard Tracy Disabato-Aust on a number of occasions. Her book The Well-Tended Perennial Garden has long been our bible for perennials. In this new book, she makes accessible for all gardeners the depth of her experience and research in incorporating many kinds of plants in a mixed border. The book is worth buying for the appendices alone: plants by design and maintenance characteristics as well as common/scientific name cross-references. A must-have garden reference book!

Bulbs are the earliest blooming flowers in the garden blooming as early as February or early March. Bulbs can be used in the perennial garden where they can complement other early flowers. Planted in the lawn or beneath deciduous shade trees, bulbs can provide your property with spots of vibrant colors.

Though bulbs prefer sun they can grow beneath the canopy of deciduous trees. In the spring, before the leaves develop, the sun can filter though the tree’s branches. However, while theyll grow best in the sun, those which are exposed to direct sun during the hottest part of the day are subject to shorter periods of bloom. Bulbs prefer organic well drained soil and will tend to rot if grown in poorly drained soils such as clay. To grow in poorly drained areas amend the soil down to 1 foot. Adding coarse textured organic mulch and compost to the soil will increase its drainage ability and add nutrients to the soil. Another solution is to plant them in raised beds created with well drained soil.

Bulbs, like perennials and annuals, should be deadheaded after they flower. Removing past blooms will prevent the bulbs from forming seed heads. This allows bulbs to put all of their energy into next years growth. Wait until the foliage turn brown before you cut the bulb back to the ground. Bulbs receive their energy through their foliage from the sun. This energy is stored below the ground in the bulbs until the following spring.

Wait until the weather is cooler in October and November to plant your bulbs. When you purchase them be sure they are firm rather than soft, bruised or moldy. If you dont plant them right away be sure to store them in a cool dry place until you do. Generally, bulbs are planted at a depth 3 to 4 times the width of the bulb. Be sure to check when you buy for specific planting instructions. I like to plant bulbs in large massings for clusters of color. Cover the planted bulbs with about 2 or 3 inches of bark mulch to help the soil retain moisture and to reduce the growth of weeds in the garden.

Every few years some bulbs begin to get crowded and need dividing. Bulbs can be dug up after the foliage turns brown and can either be planted immediately or stored in a cool dry place until theyre planted in the fall.

Bulbs can usually be depended on to provide the garden with early spring color. Sometimes, however, bulbs fail to bloom profusely. This can be the result of too much moisture, too much shade or overcrowding. It can also be the result of removing the foliage of the bulbs too soon or improper planting techniques such as planting at the wrong depth.

Bulbs are among the easiest plants to care for in the garden. With some initial work you can provide your garden with early season color year after year. Spring flowering bulbs are a pleasant sight after a long winter and are the best sign of the wonderful things to come.

T Hallinan is a landscape designer and builder in Massachusetts. Visit his garden resource website http://www.gardenlistings.com for all kind of helpful information. For more garden guides visit http://www.gardenlistings.com/resources.htm

Bare root plants are easy to handle. They are usually dormant perennials, shrubs, or trees that have been harvested from the field, have had the soil washed from their roots and then have been stored in refrigeration for later shipment. Bare rooting a plant is a safe, proven, and much used means of storing and shipping many garden plants. At Cottage Farms we always recommend that you plant bare root plants as soon as possible, but you can hold them in a refrigerator, unheated garage, or cellar for a short period if necessary. The best time of year for planting bare root plants in the garden is during the winter (if the soil is not frozen) or spring. The arrival of warmer temperatures and longer days cause the plants to wake up naturally from their winter dormancy and help insure gardening success.

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Daylilies: Cottage Farms suggests choosing a garden area that will receive at least four hours of direct sun each day. Spade or roto-till the intended flower bed to a depth of at least 8-10 inches. If you do not have good garden soil, you may want to blend in a generous portion of dehydrated manure, compost, peat moss, or shredded leaves, but daylilies are one of the easiest to grow and most forgiving plants in any garden.

Dig holes at least twice as wide and deep as the bare root divisions. Fashion a small cone-shaped mound of dirt in the center of the hole below ground level. Spread the roots over the mound with no more than 1 of soil covering the crown (where the leaves and roots meet). For daylilies with emerging green growth plant any new growth above ground level. Firm the soil around the crown of the plant. Cottage Farms always recommends mulching immediately since mulch shades and cools the soil, helps prevent weeds and provides organic matter for the soil. Water your plants thoroughly after mulching. Daylilies grow best with at least 1-inch of rain (or equivalent watering) each week, but are quite drought tolerant. As soon as new growth emerges begin fertilizing every two weeks with Cottage Farms Carefree Bud-N-Bloom Booster throughout the growing season. This will help ensure maximum flowering and root development.

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Trees and Shrubs: First, look the plant over and remove (prune) any broken or damaged limbs or roots. Cottage Farms recommends soaking the roots of the tree or shrub in a bucket of water for 2 to 3 hours prior to planting. When ready for planting, select a site suitable for the plant and dig a hole larger than the roots are wide when they are spread out. If you are planting in poor or clay soils, you may want to mix compost, dehydrated manure, peat moss or shredded leaves with you excavated soil (if you do so, you may have extra soil when you complete the planting - remove excess soil, never pile it against the stem or plant too deep) . In the bottom of the hole form a cone shaped mound of soil. Place the plant’s roots over the mound of soil and spread them evenly around the mound. Before filling the hole with soil make sure the trees existing soil line will be even with the new ground level. Begin filling the hole with soil, carefully firming the soil around the roots, leaving no air pockets. When the hole is approximately full of soil fill the hole with water and let it soak in. Once the water has soaked in make sure the tree is standing straight and finish filling the hole with soil. Form a saucer shaped rim around the outside of the hole. This will allow water to stay within the planting area. To assist a tree or tall shrub in getting anchored, you may want to stake it. As always, Cottage Farms suggests a 2-4-inch layer of mulch around the planting area to promote moisture retention, maintain even soil temperatures, and to discourage weed growth. Water the new transplant generously once every week throughout its first growing season. In later years, at least 1-inch of rain or watering equivalent per week is recommended for most soils. As soon as new growth emerges begin fertilizing every two weeks with Cottage Farms Carefree Bud-N-Bloom Booster throughout the growing season. This will help ensure maximum flowering and root development.

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Roses: Prior to planting remove (prune off) any broken roots or canes. Cottage Farms suggests soaking the entire rose plant (roots and canes) for at least 1-2 hours in luke-warm water. Select a location that receives at least four hours of sun each day. Spade or roto-till the intended rose bed to a depth of 12-15 inches. Unless you have good garden soil, Cottage Farms suggest you blend in a generous portion of dehydrated manure, compost, peat moss, or shredded leaves. This will help improve drainage and aeration.

Dig a hole at least twice as wide and deep as the bare roots. Partially fill the hole with the soil mix, making a cone shaped mound in the center of the hole over which to drape the roots. Adjust the height of the mound so the graft union is at the correct level. In warmer climates a rose should be planted so the bud union (a bulge on the stem of the rose plant indicating where the rose plant has been grafted onto the roots) is at or slightly above ground level. In colder climates, the union may be planted up to 2 below ground level to help reduce the chance for winter die-back. Spread the roots out evenly over the cone shaped mound. Holding the rose at the correct planting depth, fill the hole with soil, working it carefully around the roots. When the hole is approximately full of soil, fill the hole with water and let it soak in. Once the water has soaked into the soil, make sure the rose is standing straight up and finish filling the hole. Form a saucer shaped rim around the outside of the hole. This will allow water to stay within the planting area. Cottage Farms always suggests a 2-4-inch layer of mulch around the planting area to promote moisture retention, maintain even soil temperatures, and to discourage weed growth. Roses require at least 1-inch of rain (or equivalent watering) each week. As soon as new growth emerges begin fertilizing every two weeks with Cottage Farms Carefree Bud-N-Bloom Rose Booster throughout the growing season. This will help ensure maximum flowering and root development.

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Irises and other Rhizomes: Select a good location for the plants being planted in your garden. Irises do well in full sun or partial shade. Spade or roto-till the intended flower bed to a depth of 8-10-inches. If your garden soil poor or is a heavy clay, Cottage Farms suggest you blend in a generous portion of dehydrated manure, compost, peat moss, or shredded leaves into the soil. Dig holes at least twice as wide and deep as the rhizome. Fashion a cone shaped mound of soil in the center of the hole below ground level. Spread the roots over the mound with the top of the rhizome at ground level or slightly exposed. A common mistake is planting Iris rhizomes to deep. Firm in the soil around the rhizome with your fingers and water thoroughly. Cottage Farms always suggests a 2-4-inch layer of mulch around the planting area to promote moisture retention, maintain even soil temperatures, and to discourage weed growth. Iris perform best with at least 1-inch of rain (or equivalent watering) each week. As soon as new growth emerges begin fertilizing every two weeks with Cottage Farms Carefree Bud-N-Bloom Booster throughout the growing season. This will ensure maximum flowering and root development.