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Ames True Temper Pruning Solutions Ratchet Anvil Pruner #2343030

Wednesday, May 12th, 2010 | Author: Home and Garden

Review for Ames True Temper Pruning Solutions Ratchet Anvil Pruner #2343030

Price : $13.99

Discount Price : $13.29

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Amazon.com Product Description

The Ames True Temper pruning solutions ratchet anvil pruner features over-molded textured grips for added comfort and a hang-up hole for convenient storage. The unit’s blades are made of stainless steel for strength and durability, and have a non-stick coating for smooth cutting. This ratchet anvil pruner truly is an excellent choice for personal or professional use.

Ames True Temper Pruning Solutions Ratchet Anvil Pruner #2343030 Features

  • Ideal for hard-to-reach pruning needs
  • Features over molded comfort grips and a convenient hang-up hole
  • Non-stick coating on blades for smooth cutting
  • 1/2-inch Cutting Capacity
  • Weighs just over 1-pound

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Pruning Weeping Cherry Trees And Other Grafted And Budded Plants

Friday, May 29th, 2009 | Author: Home and Garden

What do the terms grafting and budding mean?

Budding is a form of grafting. Grafting is the art of attaching a piece of one plant to another plant, creating a new plant. Grafting is usually done because the desired plant is extremely difficult if not impossible to propagate through other means. Dogwoods, for example, are easily grown from seed, however, it is next to impossible to grow a Pink Dogwood from seed. The seeds from a Pink Dogwood will produce seedlings that are likely to flower white.

The most common method for producing Pink Dogwood trees is to remove a single bud from a Pink Dogwood tree and slip it under the bark of a White Dogwood seedling. This process is known as budding, and the seedling is known as the rootstock. This is usually done during the late summer months when the bark of the White Dogwood seedling can be easily separated from the tree, and the seedling is about 1/4 in diameter.

A very small T shaped cut is made in the bark only, and the bud is slipped in the slot. The actual bud itself is allowed to poke out through the opening and then the wound is wrapped with a rubber band both above and below the bud. By the following spring the bud will have grafted itself to the seedling, at which time the seedling is cut off just above the Pink Dogwood bud, and the bud then grows into a Pink Dogwood tree.

Budding is usually done at ground level, and often times the rootstock will send up shoots from below the bud union. These shoots, often called suckers, should be removed as soon as they appear because they are from the rootstock and are not the same variety as the rest of the plant. Flowering Crabapples are also budded and are notorious for producing suckers. When removing these suckers dont just clip them off at ground level with pruning shears, they will just grow back. Pull back the soil or mulch and remove them from the tree completely at the point where they emerge from the stem.

Most people clip them off a couple of inches from the ground, and then they grow back with multiple shoots. This drives me crazy! Get down as low as you can and remove them completely and you will keep them under control. On older trees that have been improperly pruned for years I take a digging spade and literally attack these suckers hacking them away from the stem. Sure this does a little damage to the stem of the tree, but when a plant is let go like that I figure its a do or die situation. The trees always survive and thrive.

Other plants are grafted up high to create a weeping effect. One of the most popular trees that is grafted up high is the top graft Weeping Cherry. In this case the seedling is allowed to grow to a height of 5, then the weeping variety is grafted on to the rootstock at a height of about 5. This creates an umbrella type effect. In this case the graft union is 5 off the ground, therefore anything that grows from the stem below that graft union must be removed.

Many people dont understand this and before they know it they have a branch 2 in diameter growing up through the weeping canopy of their tree. Before you know it there are several branches growing upright through the canopy and the effect of the plant is completely ruined.

At my website, http://gardening-articles.com Ive got a couple of photos that show exactly what I’m talking about in this article. You can clearly see the weeping effect that the Weeping Cherry tree is supposed to have, but then up through the middle come these branches that are no more than just suckers from the stem, or the rootstock as it is known in the nursery industry.

Looking closely at the photos you can see that these suckers originate from below the graft union. This problem could have been prevented if someone had just picked off these buds when they first emerged on the stem of the tree. Then they would have never developed into branches.

This tree can still be saved, but there will be a large scar on the stem when the upright branches are pruned off. But under the canopy of the weeping tree these scars will never show.

Another interesting plant that is grafted is the Weeping Cotoneaster. In this case the seedling that is grown to serve as the rootstock is Pauls Scarlet Hawthorn, and Cotoneaster Apiculata is grafted onto the Hawthorn rootstock at a height of 5. Years ago a nurseryman found through experimentation that these two plants are actually compatible, and a beautiful and unique plant was created. I have one of these in my landscape and we love it.

Once again since the graft union is at 5, any growth coming from the stem (rootstock) must be removed. In this case the growth coming from the rootstock will be Hawthorn and will look completely different from the Cotoneaster which is what the plant is supposed to be. The easiest way to keep up with this type of pruning is to keep an eye on your grafted plants when youre in the yard. As soon as you see new growth coming from below the graft union, just pick it off with your fingernail.

If you catch these new buds when they first emerge, pruning them off is as easy as that. Walk around your yard and look for grafted or budded plants, and see if you can find any that have growth that doesnt seem to match the rest of the plant. Look closely and you may find that the growth is coming from below a graft or bud union.

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter. Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

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The Well-Tended Perennial Garden: Planting And Pruning Techniques

Sunday, April 05th, 2009 | Author: Home and Garden

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Price : $21.92

 

Product Description

With more than 130,000 copies sold since the original publication, The Well-Tended Perennial Garden has proven itself to be one of the most useful tools a gardener can have. In this expanded edition more than 200 color photographs have been added, showing perennials in various border situations and providing images for each of the entries in the AZ encyclopedia. In addition, there is a new 32-page journal section with room to enter details, notes, and observations about the requirements and performance of perennials in your own garden. Thousands of readers have commented that The Well-Tended Perennial Garden is one of the most useful and frequently consulted books in their gardening libraries. This new, expanded edition promises to be an even more effective ally in your quest to create a beautiful, healthy, well-maintained perennial garden.

Customer Reviews

Review date : 2008-12-01
The way this book is layed out is great and makes it easy to find the info you are specifically looking for quickly. It uses both common and scientific (Latin?) names, which is a good feature in my book (no pun intended!) It has a very concise section on when & what to deadhead, and what to cut down at the end of the season and what not to (and why). Also covers the usual – bed prep, plant division, diseases & pests, etc. but in a very common sense way that makes you feel like you can’t go wrong as long as you have this book to reference. I have seen this book recommended by many people on The Garden Web site, so I was confident in buying it but it is even better than I anticipated.

Review date : 2008-11-03
It’s been a long time since I’ve picked up a garden book and read it cover to cover. This one did the job. We design gardens for a living and frequently need a comprehensive guide to let clients tailor their garden maintenance. From installation through customizing maintenance techniques for individual species this book does it all….and well.

Review date : 2008-09-23
This book tells you what and when to do things to most perennials. It has made me a much better gardener and made my garden look better. I loved it so much that I bought a copy for my Sister-in-law.
I recommend it for gardeners on all levels.

Review date : 2008-09-20
I am in agreement with all of the other very positive reviews on the "Well Tended Perennial Garden", this has quickly became my new bible on perennials. The writer is very knowledgeable and opinionated; though at times her personal tastes on plants come through loud and clear. Though there were some instances when I strongly disagree with her, for instance her view on irises not being worth the effort, but that did not take away from the usability of this book.

The Encyclopedia of Perennials is a great resource, one place that you can go for information on a plant including not only the usual details regarding size, exposures, zones etc but also details on how to prune, the level of maintenance you should expect and related plants.

Review date : 2008-09-13
Great overview of perennial care. Easy to read. Great pruning, growing, staking, fertilizing, and overall care tips. Great for novice to expert gardeners.

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