Fall is for planting trees. Planting hardy trees in the fall allows them to form a good root system before they must compete with the heat and humidity of hot summers. Fall and early winter are the best time to plant a tree. November is perfect month for this job.

Planting in the dormant season puts less stress on the newly planted trees. There is typically more than enough natural moisture, which allows the new trees to start forming roots without much intervention from us. However, if there is no rainfall for several weeks, you must water, even if it is chilly.

Do not plant your tree under or in the vicinity of power lines. Give the tree plenty of room to form its natural canopy and shape. Do not forget to take into the account the width of a mature tree. Do not plant a shade tree any closer than 15 feet from the foundation of the building.

Select tree that love the conditions you have. If you have a moist boggy soil, choose tree that prefer moisture. Similarly do not put something that likes water (for example, River Birch) in a dry site.

When planting a new tree, you should dig a hole which is 3 times as wide as the plants root ball, but only as deep as the root ball is. Do not change the existing soil. You can mix organic matter with the existing soil.

The depth of the hole should only be as deep as the root ball, or somewhat shallower. You must allow natural settling of the soil. In addition, do not bury your tree too deep. If you do, the roots will not develop because they will lack oxygen. No fertilization should be used at planting your new tree.

Once you planted your tree, apply mulch around it to a depth of 2 to 4 inches. There should be some space between the stem of the tree and the mulch.

Water is crucial aspect for success. Too little or too much can both cause the death of your tree. The site should be well drained and water deeply to support root formation.

If your tree is structurally good, staking is not required. On the other hand, if you have a tall tree with a small root system, or live in a region with strong winds, staking is required. In this case, use 2 or 3 stakes used with a flexible tie material.

Do not stake too tightly because there should some natural movement. Remove ties and stakes after the first year of growth.

Gardening, Gardening Tips, Vegetable Garden

A vegetable garden is becoming a long lost art as land continues to diminish in the wake of growing and connecting communities. But it still remains true that a purchased vegetable never tastes the same as one grown in man’s own soil with mans own hands, the culmination of your sweat and tears to provide a healthy harvest.

To ensure the most satisfaction in vegetable-growing make sure that the soil be rich and thoroughly subdued and fined. Arrange your plantation rows so that the tilling can be done with wheel tools which will help you greatly in maintaining your crops. If youre really into going bigger, keep some planned room just in case you get into using horse tools. Keep in mind that this could be a big undertaking as the old-time garden bed consumes a lot of time and labor, and can be more trouble and expense than what most would consider, worth the effort. Make sure youre up for the gardening challenge.

Try and make the garden vegetables rows as long and continuous as possible, to allow you to work easier with tillage and wheel tools. You can keep each row to one kind of vegetable but if you dont have the room, consider adding several different species, one following the other. Some care should be taken to plant vegetables with similar requirements together in one row. One long row, for example, might contain all the parsnips, carrots, and celery. One or two long rows containing a dozen kinds of vegetables are usually preferable to a dozen short rows, each with one kind of vegetable. See what fits your situation best and work from there.

It is a good idea to plant the permanent vegetables, such as rhubarb and asparagus, at one side of the garden, where they will not interfere with the plowing or tilling. Try and ensure that the annual vegetables are grown on different parts of the garden in the following years; this is basically a crop rotation and can be a healthy stimulant for your garden. Crop rotation can also be used to unsure youre not growing on an infested plantation. For instance, if radish or cabbage maggots or club-root take over and fully established in the plantation, dont plant anything in that area of the garden for a year or more to rejuvenate the plot.

Many gardeners when building a vegetable garden only use the space for simple kitchen garden products and leave areas of bare earth. Flowers can be planted in these spaces, wherever you have a vacant corner or a plant dies. Gardens with such informal and impromptu mixed gardens usually take on their own distinct personal character that adds greatly to the gardens interest and value. Most are generally impressed with this informal character of the home-garden in many European countries, due to their planting history that arises from the necessity of making the most of every inch of soil available. Its not uncommon to stroll the European country side and look over the fence of a Bavarian peasant’s garden and to see, on a space about 40 feet by 100 feet in area, a delightful medley of onions, pole beans, peonies, celery, balsams, gooseberries, coleus, cabbages, sunflowers, beets, poppies, cucumbers, morning-glories, kohl-rabi, verbenas, bush beans, pinks, stocks, currants, wormwood, parsley, carrots, kale, perennial phlox, nasturtiums, feverfew, lettuce, lilies! It certainly is a beautiful sight.